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» Home » Tours with Keystone Journeys » South America » INCAS & AMAZON » THE INCA TRAIL

INCAS & AMAZON

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  • THE INCA TRAIL
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The Inca Trail 

Inca Trail, Machu Picchu and Porters 

Part of the 23,000 kilometers (approximately 14,000 miles) of roads built by the Incas in South America, this is Peru's most famous trekking route and possibly one of the most spectacular in the Americas. Every year; some 25,000 hikers from around the world walk along the extraordinary 43 kilometers of this stone-paved road built by the Incas leading to the unassailable citadel of Machu Picchu located in the depth of the Cuzco jungle. The journey starts in the village of Qorihuayrachina, at kilometer 88 of the Cuzco - Quillabamba railway and takes three or four days of strenuous walking. The route includes an impressive variety of altitudes, climates and ecosystems that range from the high Andean plain to the cloud forest. Travelers will cross two high altitude passes (the highest being Warmiwañuska at 4,200 m.a.s.l.) to culminate the hike with a magical entrance to Machu Picchu through the Inti Punko or Gateway of the Sun. One of the main attractions along the route is the web of ancient settlements built in granite rock by the Incas like Wiñay Wayna and Phuyupatamarca immersed in an overpowering natural scenery.

The total distance of the trail is approximately 39.6 Km. and begins at Km. 88 at a place called Q'oriwayrachina. 

Due to environmental concerns, current regulations in Peru limit the amount of people on the Classic Inca Trail to 500 per day. This means that there are only about 160 places for trekkers as the rest are taken up by the porters and guides. All trekkers need to have a permit and these must be booked at least 30 days in advance. As you can imagine, places get booked up quickly, well in advance! To obtain a permit for the Inca Trail, name (as shown in your passport), date of birth, passport details and a deposit are required which means we can only apply for them once we receive your booking - there is no way to reserve places in advance without these details. So the earlier you book, the better chance you have of getting a permit! 

If there are no places on the Classic Inca Trail or if you would like to do something different, there are alternative Inca trail treks that see less tourists and have outstanding scenery equal to, if not exceeding that of the classic Inca Trail. The Incas made many paths through the mountains and left evidence of their existence in the form of stonework and terraces. We can organise alternative trails for you which all include visiting the ruins of Machu Picchu.

NOTE: Only the Inca Trail has limited spaces; the ruins of Macchu Picchu can always be visited, reached by an alternative trek or by train.

The Inca Trail 2 or 4 days: This is the hiking route to visit the ruins of Machu Picchu. This 2 or 4-day trek is rated moderate to strenuous and most people with a good fitness level can master it without problems.  The average daily hiking time is between 5-8 hours and participants can go at their own pace. Accommodation is camping.  There is a very knowledgeable guide accompanying the group and porters who will carry the tents, food and all camping equipment.

During this period your luggage will be stored in the hotel in Cuzco and you will only have to carry your day bag with sun cream, camera, water, rain jacket, hat, and any other gear you need during the day.  Sleeping bags and mats and raincoats can be hired with the outfitter in Cuzco; however, many people choose to bring their own sleeping bags.  At the end of each day, tents will be set up by porters as well as meals cooked in order to allow you time to relax and enjoy the stunning scenery.

The hike ends on the 4th day in the lost city of the Incas, Machu Picchu, and provides you with the unique opportunity to enjoy this mysterious place almost as unspoiled as it was in ancient times and before the train with the main tourist stream arrives.

There is also the option to undertake a shorter hike travelling by train part of the way to the ruins (please let us know at the time of booking if you’re interested in this 2 day trek).

Alternative  to the Inca Trail is the Salkantay Trek which is 5 days. This is becoming a popular alternative to the Classic Inca Trail described above.  The trek sees fewer tourists and takes you to some of the most stunning mountain scenery in the region.  It can be a little more strenuous than the Classic Inca Trail due to the altitude of the highest pass (4800m) however, you will be accompanied by horses who are available for riding if you’re finding it tough! As with the Classic Inca Trail, anyone with a good level of fitness can do the walk but you will find it more rewarding if you prepare yourself with some walking before you leave home.  The trek is 4 days around the awesome, snow-covered Mt. Salkantay, crossing a pass on its western shoulder and descending to the Santa TheresaValley.  The final leg is by truck and train to Aguas Calientes where we spend the night.  On the 5th day you can either take the first bus up to Machu Picchu at 6am or walk the steep ascent to see the ruins at sunrise. 

NOTE: Even though the Inca Trail operator used take good care of their porters and pay them a fair wage, the porters, guides and cooks on your trip will very much rely on, and work hard for your tips as a supplementary income. It is for this reason that we recommend that each of our clients tip a minimum of US $30. They are 100% worth it!

Tours that include the Inca Trail

OVERLAND TOURS 
1] Mountains and Deserts - 35 days; Santiago to Lima OR Lima to Santiago
2] Incas and Amazon - 37 days: Quito to La Paz OR La Paz to Quito
3] Andean Footsteps - 53 days: Quito to Santiago OR Santiago to Quito
4] The Latin Chain - 12.5 weeks; Lima to Rio OR Rio to Lima
5] South American Odyssey - 15 weeks; Quito to Rio OR Rio to Quito

HOTEL BASED TOURS 
1] Peru Encompassed - 15 days; Lima to Lima
2] Peru & Bolivia - 21 days; Lima to La Paz OR La Paz to Lima

PREMIUM (COMFORT PLUS) OVERLAND TOURS 
1] Lost Civilisations - 23 days; Lima to La Paz OR La Paz to Lima 

Climate and Environment

The climate is relatively mild all year- round, with heavy rains from November to March, and dry and hot weather from April to October, which is a recommendable time to visit. The annual minimal temperature runs from 8° to 11.2°C. In the months of June, July and August the temperature can often fall below zero. The annual maximum temperature varies from 20.4° to 26.6°C. The terrain is fairly jagged, with many gullies and streams fed by glaciers which eventually pour into the Urubamba river, which crosses the area forming a deep valley which runs through the granite base of Vilcabamba for more than 40 km through a variety of eco-systems.

Month Temperature Average Precipitation (mm) Wet Days (+0.25 mm)
Average Record
Min Max Min Max
Jan 7 20 3 28 163 18
Feb 7 21 2 27 150 13
March 7 21 2 26 109 11
April 4 22 -4 26 51 8
May 2 21 -4 26 15 3
Jun 1 21 -5 25 5 2
July -1 21 -9 25 5 2
Aug 1 21 -5 25 10 2
Sept 4 22 -1 27 25 7
Oct 6 22 -1 29 66 8
Nov 6 23 1 28 76 12
Dec 7 22 1 27 137 16


Inca Trail Regulations

The Peruvian Government introduced new regulations concerning the Inca Trail trek in 2001 with the aim of reducing the high numbers of people trekking and the environmental problems this caused - in particular, overcrowding and litter had become a big problem. The total amount of people per day allowed on the Trail was limited to 500, to include trekkers, guides, porters and cooks. These new regulations and a new booking system have been slowly introduced albeit leniently over the last 4 years - in 2005 they are being imposed more rigorously. This is good news for the preservation of the Inca Trail but it means tour operators and travellers alike will have to plan ahead.

It is estimated that the 500 people will comprise of roughly 160 trekkers on the 4 day Classic Inca Trail plus a small number of trekkers on the 2 day trek and the remaining amount being porters, guides and cooks. In high season (June to September), the number of travellers wishing to trek the Inca Trail far outweighs the numbers allowed so it is imperative to book as far ahead as possible!

What effects the regulations will have...

To trek the Classic Inca Trail, you need a permit which is obtained through a licensed Peruvian tour operator. These are issued on a first come first served basis and name, date of birth, passport details and payment is required at the time of booking - there is no way to reserve places in advance without these details. So the earlier you book, the better chance you have of getting a permit! We recommend that you book your trip at least 3 months in advance to have the best chance of trekking the Classic Inca Trail, longer during the busy period from June to August. NOTE: The permit is non-refundable and cannot be transferred to another person.

On The Trek

Group size - there is a maximum group size of 16

Equipment - good equipment and first aid supplies must be carried

Guides - there must be 1 guide for every 8 trekkers

Porters - Amongst the new regulations are those intended to ensure porters receive fair wages and working conditions. Porters have been gravely exploited in the past, being expected to carry huge loads and not provided with proper carrying equipment, clothing, shelter or food. There is now a minimum wage of approximately US$10 per day (a reasonable wage in Peru) and a maximum load of 25kg (20kg plus 5kg for personal gear). Not all tour operators adhere to these regulations and more enforcement by the authorities is needed.

Peruvian Tour Operators

Peruvian tour operators must be licensed in order to run treks on the Inca Trail. The UGM (Unidad de Gestion Machu Picchu) - the Peruvian authority that is responsible for managing visitors to Machu Picchu and the Inca Trail - sets standards that must be met to obtain the license e.g. quality of equipment taken on the trek, first aid supplies, proficient guides etc. Licenses must be applied for each year in February.

Independent Travelers

For those planning to travel independently to Peru and who hope to arrange a trek on arrival, you may be lucky to find that permits are available for a week's time. However, some travellers have been unable to get permits even 2 weeks or more ahead and we expect it to be even more difficult this year, particularly during the high season. NOTE: Trekking the Inca Trail independently is no longer allowed, you must either hire a qualified guide (which is very difficult) or book through a licensed tour operator.

Cleaning the Inca Trail

The Inca Trail is closed during February (the wettest and least popular season) to give the environment a break from the constant flow of trekkers and to enable a clean-up of the trail.

Rules governing the visit of tourists: 

Every person who enters the sanctuary of Macchu Picchu and uses the authorized trekking routes must heed the following rules provided by government authorities:

  • Give requested information to authorities and official entities.
  • Pay the entrance fee to the Inca Trail or other path.
  • Do not litter !!!
  • Use public installations without deteriorating or destroying them.
  • Do not make campfires on the Inca trail
  • It is strictly forbidden to extract, depredate or buy any variety of flora in the Machu Picchu Historic Shrine.
  • It is strictly forbidden to capture, hunt, depredate or buy any wildlife in the Sanctuary.
  • Camp only in the places indicated. It is forbidden to camp inside archaeological constructions or restricted areas.
  • Behave in orderly fashion so as not to disturb other hikers. 

Please, respect the rules. 

Porters

When you take a trek organized by a local tour operator on the Inca Trail, the camping equipment (tents, dining tent, kitchen tent, tables, chairs, stove, gas bottle and food) is carried on the backs of human porters. Pack animals such as horses, mules and llamas are now banned from the trail.

Talk to your porters, learn about their traditions and villages. Share some coca leaves. Even ask them to sing some of their local songs; don't wait for them to talk to you first and show your porters that you appreciated them. Thank them verbally and leave a tip.

Porters' Wages

The Peruvian government can be praised for introducing the Porters Law which states that a porter should receive a minimum wage of 41 Soles per day (about US$14). Sadly not all trekking companies are paying their porters this wage.

Weight Limit

The maximum weight that a porter can carry on the Inca Trail has been limited to 25kg. This includes a 5kg personal allowance for items such as blankets and clothes. Each porter is weighed at the start of the trail and then again at Wayllabamba at the start of the second day. This regulation was introduced in 2002 and has been strictly enforced. Companies that are caught overloading their porters receive fines and the risk of losing their licenses. Obviously responsible companies do not practice such activities.

Meals & Sleeping Conditions

The biggest difference between a responsible company and an irresponsible one is how they look after their porters on the trek. Many porters end the trail tired and hungry. In general porters sleep together in the group dining and kitchen tents. When you are on the Inca Trail remember to try and not end up talking all night in the dining tent as there may be tired and cold porters outside waiting to go to bed. There is still plenty of room for improvement for even the most expensive and professional trekking companies when it comes to providing warm, comfortable and dry accommodation for their porters.

Porter Culture
The Quechua race has a history of being down-trodden, first by the Incas, then by the Spanish and then by the landowners. Only in fairly recent reforms have the Quechua people started to own their own land. It is important on the Inca Trail to try to involve the porters in your group. Take some coca leaves to share with them and try to learn a couple of basic words in Quechua. Many of the porters have amazing stories to tell about traditions and life in their villages. At the end of the trek don't forget to show them that you appreciated their work and valued their contribution towards the trek by thanking them verbally and giving them a tip.

How much to tip?
Tipping the guide and cook should be dependent on the quality of the service that you received. If their tips are consistantly poor then they will soon get the message that they need to improve. However, even if the food was terrible and the guide spoke no English (which we hope will not be the case), the porters were probably still working away hard carrying the camping equipment and tents so don't forget to leave a tip. The amount you pay depends on you. Try to take plenty of small change so that you can give the tips directly to the porters. This is much better than giving the money to the cook or the guide to be divided up later amongst the porters as often the money is unfairly distributed. Try to keep your tip to a sensible amount and if you want to help the porters more then contribute to one of the existing porter welfare projects in Cusco.

**There are quite a few projects aimed at raising awareness to porter welfare issues. Visitors to Cusco can donate warm clothes or school equipment (books, paper, pens etc) at the Peru Trekas and Adventure office. The project is aimed more at helping the children from the porters communities. It is run by volunteers and all office overheads, transport and distribution costs are paid for by the company allowing 100% of the donations to go directly to the communities. Donations of clothes and equipment only, no cash donations. Office address: La Casa Cultural, Avenida Pardo 540, Cusco.

**Although the organisation is no longer in operation useful information about porter welfare can be found on the following website: www.peruweb.org and link through to the Porter section. This is / was the official website of 'Porteadores Inka Nan' (Inka Porter Project).

 

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